Quick Guide to Taking Better Photos

Quick Guide to Taking Better Photos
by: Marilyn Lyons

In my business I see a lot of snapshots taken by ordinary people. They aren't professional photographers. The "Average Joe" is usually just trying to record a moment or subject, not win a prize in a photo contest for technical excellence. However, here is something very important to remember before taking that spare-of-the-moment picture. You won't be able to take that exact image again. That moment in time will be gone. So, it's best if you record that image the best you can at the time you hear the click of the shutter. Call it an insurance policy. Better to do it correct when taking the photo now than years later saying ..."what if" or "I wish I had..."

These tips are very simple things to do and to make a habit of when taking pictures. If you are already doing them...great. You probably will have fewer "second thoughts" years from now. However, if you think your photos are lacking "something", these tips could be the key to saying "wow" today and tomorrow. I guarantee you will see major improvement in your photography, if you follow these steps.

---Move in as close to the subject(s) as possible. Unless you're taking a scenic shot, a lot of background in the picture is not important. (more about that later) We want to see the person/subject, not the trees or grass in the background. When looking at the printed photo later, we want the eyes to be drawn to the subject(s). The subject should be the focus of the picture. Also, unless what the person is wearing is important, it it not necessary to include the subject from head to toe in the picture. You'll be able to get much closer if you take the picture with the subject(s) shown, at most, from the waist-up.

---How you hold the camera, vertical (up & down) or horizontal (left to right), will help in framing the subject. This will also help you to get as close as possible. Can you get the subjects in the camera's viewfinder when holding it vertically. If so, that's how you should take the photo. If not, switch to horizontal. Usually, in general, 1 or 2 people should be taken vertically. Three or more people should probably be taken horizontally. This is probably the most common, but easily correctable, problem with snapshots that I see. If there is one person in the photo, rarely should the picture be taken horizontally. Yet, I see it a lot. It's understandable if the person is standing in the Grand Canyon. That's a wide scenic view and one that you want to include in the image. But, that is rare. Here is another important tip concerning positioning of the camera. Move the camera before you move yourself. If you are the photographer, stand 5-10 feet from the subject(s) and position the camera in the vertical or horizontal position following the guidelines stated above. If you can't fit everyone in the frame, then take a step(s) backward. Remember, we're trying to be as close as possible to the subject(s). Experiment with repositioning the camera before repositioning yourself!

---Too much needless background in a photo is a common problem with snapshots. Moving in closer and positioning the camera correctly can eliminate needless background. But, how do you decide when to curb it and when to expand it? Ask yourself these questions. Is the background unique or interesting? Does the background help in telling a story about the subject or what was happening at the time the picture was taken? If you are taking a picture of a clown in front of a building or in front of trees and bushes, the background is not unique, nor is it telling a story about the clown. So, move in close and take the picture vertically. However, if the clown is standing in the middle of the midway of a carnival or circus, that is very appropriate to show in the background. It helps to tell a story about the clown and it's interesting. It also tells a story about the photographer. It lets us know that the photographer was at a carnival or circus. This would be an ideal situation to step back and allow more of the background to be seen in the viewfinder. Use this tip when considering where to take your picture and how to position the camera.

---By following the tips above, you will not only see more appealing photos but it will also be a major benefit if you should decide you want any of your photos enlarged in the future. You might even find it more cost effective. Here's how. A top reason why a lot of people have a photo enlarged, is because they want to see the subject(s) bigger and have needless background eliminated. An issue that wouldn't be an issue if the steps outlined above were followed. If when taking your photos you move in closer and position the camera correctly, vertical vs horizontal, (A) The image/subjects will be closer and easier to see, therefore enlarging may not be necessary. (B) If you want a photo enlarged, you probably will find it will not have to be enlarged as much to get the size of image/subject you desire.

---Let's debunk a myth! The best pictures are those taken in bright sunlight. Right? That's WRONG! The best lighting conditions in which to snap an outdoor photo is...overcast skies. Bright sunlight, especially from an afternoon summer sun, washes out color on the subject and causes upheaval with your camera's eye or lens. For more appealing skin tone and color saturation, take your outdoor photos on an overcast day or in the shade. A trick that professional photographers use when shooting in these conditions is to use flash on a low setting. The flash adds a little light to brighten the scene (highlights) and add "catch lights" (those little white dots) to the eyes. A yellow filter can be attached to the front of the flash to add a bit of yellow light, mimicking the sun. The flash will also be very beneficial if the subject is wearing a hat or cap with a brim. The hat can overshadow the eyes and top of the face. By using flash, you'll reduce the shadow by throwing light under the brim.

Speaking of the sun...don't pose your subject(s) facing the sun (causes eye squinting and wrinkles) or with their back to the sun (causes lighting issues) . Position the subject with the sun to their side.

A GOOD sun in which to photograph outdoor pictures, is a late afternoon autumn sun. The deeper yellow lighting adds warmth to a photo. Done correctly, the lighting alone can make a photo extraordinary.

---Want to eliminate "red eye"? The scary, glowing "red eye" affect is caused when the flash is reflected in the eye and bounces back to the camera's lens. I won't bore you with a physics lesson, but that reflection bounces back in an almost straight and level line from the eyes. So, if your flash is attached to the camera, do not take the picture on the same level as your subject's eyes. (A) Have the person look towards the camera but not directly at it. (B) The photographer should move the camera slightly above or below the subject's eye level.

If your camera has a detachable flash, hold the flash above and to the side of the camera when snapping the shutter.

Photographing animals without "red eye" is more difficult because you can't control where they look and usually have to snap it quick. Suggestions include...photographing them in action and not in a posed position, therefore their eyes more than likely won't be directed towards the camera. Secondly, you can try quickly moving away from the animal's eye level a split second before snapping the shutter. But, that is dangerous because you may have "camera shake" when clicking the shutter, which will lead to a fuzzy image.

About The Author

Marilyn Lyons is an awarding winning photographer with a Photographic Technology degree from the Ohio Institute of Photography & Technology. She has worked with a variety of photographers and owned her own studio. She currently is a veteran of the photo sculpture industry, working with photographers and the general public to produce stand-up 3-d cutouts and popouts of their photography. You can check-out a gallery of her creations at Fun Fotos (close new window/tab to return to this page).

Nine Hints For Taking Great Digital Photos

Nine Hints For Taking Great Digital Photos
by: Christopher Thomas

Introduction

Modern cameras are highly automatic in operation. They have auto focus and auto exposure. The camera will focus on the subject - often identified by a small circle or square at the centre of the viewfinder - and calculate an appropriate exposure by detecting the level of reflected light - usually from the same spot. A slight pressure on the shutter release will activate those two functions, without taking a picture. Further pressure on the shutter release will result in a photo being taken.

1 Take care to Focus and Expose on the Subject of the Image

Imagine you are taking a picture of your girl friend against the background of an interesting harbour. Your girl friend is six feet away while the harbour is around 50 feet away. You position your girl friend carefully - she is important to you - at one side of the picture with an interesting view of the harbour in the distance. Now do you want to focus on the harbour - or your girl friend? Position the square or circle at the centre of the viewfinder over the spot that you want to focus on and correctly expose - take a slight pressure on the shutter release - and keep that pressure while you move the camera to frame the image you want to take - then, and only then, push the shutter release fully down and take the photo.

If you want to have everything in focus - then see 7 Depth of Field.

2 Carefully Compose Your Shot

Before taking the picture take a careful last look through the viewfinder. Check the composition, and particularly that heads and feet are included, and that all faces are visible in anything other the smallest of groups. With the camera taking care of focus and exposure - you have the time to concentrate on getting the composition perfect. Photographic amputation of limbs is unforgivable!

3 Set the Colour Balance Correctly on the Camera

Digital cameras have controls that allow the operator to set the nature of the lighting illuminating the subject. In general they will default to daylight, since shots are likely to be taken outdoors. On this setting, pictures taken indoors under artificial tungsten lighting will look yellow - they will have a yellow cast. Pictures taken under strip lighting will look green. Setting the camera appropriately will produce consistent balanced photographs. Look in the camera manual to see how to set the control - it is very easy. Flash guns produce a light, which is very similar in colour 'temperature' to that of daylight.

4 Don't Expect Too Much from the On Camera Flash

The on camera flash is designed for convenience when shooting a small group of people. It will not illuminate a hall. When watching public events on the television it is somewhat surprising to see members of the audience in the Albert hall take a pocket camera out and shoot a picture with their flash. This is unlikely to be successful. Better to turn the sensitivity of the camera up - say to 800ASA - the 'film speed', or sensitivity. This might produce a better result. Do not confuse sensitivity of the camera with shutter speed. They are different.

An on camera flash will illuminate only a short distance - as a guide pick up your cat firmly with two hands by the tail and swing it around at arms length - that is the sort of distance the flash will illuminate!

5 A Tripod is Essential for Long Distance Shots

Most modern digital cameras come with a zoom lens that can take both wide angle and telephoto shots. This is extremely useful. However remember that when the camera is on its furthest telephoto setting, camera shake will become a problem. If you are taking a telephoto shot and the camera chooses a slow to medium shutter speed, the result might be blurred due to the movement of your hands while taking the exposure.

Use a tripod - all wildlife photographers use them. They are a pain to carry but improve quality by orders of magnitude.

6 Fast Moving Subject Require a Fast Shutter Speed

The shutter is that part of the camera which opens briefly to allow light to strike the sensitive surface of the detector to produce an image. Fast moving object require extremely short shutter speeds in order to capture a crisp sharp image. Slower shutter speeds will produce a blur as the object moves.

In general outdoor photography a shutter speed of 1/60th or 1/125th second will be acceptable. In contrast, shooting a formula one car in motion will require shutter speed of say 1/1000th of a second.

7 A little About Depth of Field

In days past, a photographer would measure the level of light at a location with a light meter and then calculate the best combination of shutter speed and aperture to correctly expose the film.

This is now done automatically by the camera. Aperture is the measure of how much light is passing through the lens. The lens has an iris, which can be 'stopped down' to reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. A fully open lens will pass the greatest amount of light - full aperture - but this also reduces the 'depth of field'. The depth of field is the band of distance over which the subject is in focus. In 1 above, with full aperture either your girl friend or the harbour is in focus - but not both. By 'stopping down' the lens - reducing the aperture - both can be brought into focus. But as a consequence the amount of light passing through the lens is reduced. The length of time which the shutter is open will have to be increased to compensate.

8 When taking Landscapes Avoid Putting the Horizon Across the Centre of the Image

Drawing the picture horizon in the middle of the image simply looks naff. It divides the picture in to two and fails to engage the viewer. Best to concentrate on the sky or the foreground. Photograph a setting sun with red sky, or a rainbow with the horizon low in the picture. Or concentrate on the landscape and place the horizon high in the picture.

9 Be Aware of the Effects of Back Lighting

Let us go back to the example given in Hint 1. Imagine that in the picture of your girl friend in front of the harbour, the sun is setting, casting its golden rays across the sea and reflecting on the masts and other metal objects of the harbour with white clouds illuminated red in the dying rays of the sun. An evocative and romantic shot.

Taking the shot with the camera will result in a beautiful background but a black shadow of a girl friend! Now that might be appropriate should you have had a particularly bad day with her and it might correctly reflect the mood. However using the on camera flash to fill in the darkness - to illuminate her face and show her features might be more appropriate on a better day!

by Christopher Thomas
View Link (close new window/tab to return to this page)

About The Author

Christopher Thomas is both keen photographer and company director of Viewlink Ltd, based in Amersham Uk.

For more information please visit View Link (close new window/tab to return to this page) where you can find a range of online photo developing services, gifts and industry related articles.